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I can actually say that I've been ridiculously busy for the past 6 months, which is not something volunteers often get a chance to say. I'll take it for what it is and try to share everything that has been keeping me occupied. You can take it for what it is and try to get through this massive missive.

Over almost 2 months ago now, the electrician connected the solar panel to the lights in the maternity. Since then, the joint "rural birthing facility" has been complete in terms of structure; what remains has to do with the organization and functioning of the facility. With only a few delays and set-backs, this project verified my community's ability to rally around their cause and see it through to the end (at least of the first phase). A big thanks goes to my village counterpart for his endless hours of dedicated effort, for putting up with my stubbornness in refusing to do anything without a Malian co-facilitator, and for being patient when I became overly frustrated with things I could not control.

The completed maternity and laterines

I have been reluctant to write because of some of the difficulties we came upon. Before I start to recount the last few months, I would like to reassure you that despite all that has happened, I am still extremely encouraged by certain individuals, who act thoughtlessly and with unlimited dedication to the cause of their community's development. Mali is no different from other countries in the sense that some individuals are motivated, perservering and problem-solving... and some are not. I was lucky to be placed in a small village teeming with the first type of people, who surprised me whenever we came across what seemed to be an unfixable roadblock. These are the women who carried water each and every day to the worksite without question, the men who volunteered to take other people's places even if it wasn't their "team's" day to work. At the same time, I do not want to down play the struggles we've had- they are in no way a light matter, something to be excused or written off as frivolous problems one always encounters in developing countries. Thankfully, with the help of a new contact, the maternity project is back on track for its opening this fall.

Construction

February and March
A group of men work on the maternity in the background while young men and boys move this year's cotton crop into the truck container that will be picked up by the cotton union. Cotton has become increasingly less profitable for Malians, with the unreliable market and fluctuating prices. Also, cotton removes so many nutrients from the soil, leaving it in a state that must be addressed with compost or other nutrient-adding fertilizers.

The building proceeded pretty smoothly and quickly; it was the small details that fell into place later on. The last pieces added were the ceiling, the colar panel and wiring and the painting of the inside. The painters had to wait for the electrician and the electrition had to wait for the carpenters who were installing the ceiling tiles. Getting all of these local laborers' schedules to match up was difficult- getting their transport and the transportation of their materials organized meant that this part took just as long as the actual construction. After it all, the building is much larger than I expected, providing the incentive to grow just as soon as the facility has the capacity and is well-established.

Here the painters mix the paint and concrete for the external walls. Orginally we had asked for a light yellow, but there was a misunderstanding and the color we ended up with was a sandy orange. It's probably for the best considering that this color will camoflauge the dirt and dust.

April and May
With that, the physically intensive aspects of the maternity were over and the village relaxed for a bit. But not for too long. All types of reconstruction and construction work consume the dry season (from November-May) since the rainy season is filled with agricultural tasks. That meant that as soon as they finished the maternity, they could move on to their other dry season priorities, including a well project and a small bridge. Last year, another NGO began working on a well located between the school and the maternity. The village dug out the well, but unfortunately a lack of funding mean that it could not be completed last year. With the contributions of many of my friends and family, the well has now been finished, just in time for rainy season. The process of well-digging is quite astonishing to me who knows nothing about construction. After the solidification of 15 huge cement and metal rings, the well-digger, with the help of our community members, were able to attach a thick cable to each ring in order to lower it into the well. These rings reinforce the walls of the well so that it does not collapse on itself. The top of the well is raised and covered with a pulley system, discouraging the school children from climbing on top of the well. Thankfully, this new well will provide much easier access to water, easing the amount of work for those involved with the maternity or with the school.

The well-digger sets the frame for the top of the well

Lowering a cement ring into the well
A cement ring and lots of water in the well! This muddy water will be removed before the clean water can fill in.

When not concentrating on the community building projects, most villagers have building projects of their own- whether it be a new house, re-roofing an old house, the replacement of doors or windows, the list goes on. Most of these are constructed from mud bricks and natural materials found locally, which adds to the sustainability and natural cooling ability of the houses. Villagers draw the mud from an area on the outskirts of town that is a pond until December. The mud is then mixed with grasses and manure for bricks or just manure to be creped on the walls and floors.

In order to ease access to the maternity for the villagers of our neighboring town of Folona, the two villages met each Tuesday to improve the road between the towns. There is an area that is perpetually washed out because of stream at the bottom of a hill. They have reinforced this bridge many times before, but this year's efforts were impressive. Bassa's villagers contributed the use of their donkey carts because the distance is shorter and easier to access for us. Folona contributed workers that placed the logs, large rocks and stones to fix the road. By building up the path and creating a place for the stream to run freely, everyone has high hopes for this version lasting longer than previous attempts.

Dry season is also cashew season. I cannot remember if I mentioned this last year, but I am amazed at learning how cashews (among many other things) actually grow. Before coming to Mali, I thought that cashews grew like peanuts, that they were a tuber that would be pulled from the ground. The United States is not a very good place for understanding the actual agricultural sources for our foods, which is sometimes a relief and sometimes makes me feel extremely ignorant. More about my love-hate relationship with the idea of grocery stores in my next entry. For now, just take a look at the cashew tree and the cashew fruit (that is super sweet and spongy). The fruit spoils pretty quickly, so it is a challenge to eat them all. The cashew itself, coated in a thick skin and somewhat-toxic oil, is removed from the top of the fruit to either sell or process. Many Malians have never roasted cashew themselves to eat because of the intensive process of burning off the oil around the nut. The oil around the cashew can burn or cause a serious reaction until it is completely cleaned. This oil is also flammable. Ater the cashew nut is actually extracted and cleaned, it is roasted and that is the final product we get in our can. Check out more about cashews here and start thinking how many foods that we take their acquisition for granted (A Perfect Storm...).

Conferences

March and April
In March, there were two large events held in Bamako that focused specifically on shea nuts and butter production in Mali. First was the International Shea Day, attended by a number local Malian women working to produce high-quality shea. There was a small fair for displaying Malian shea products and a number of speakers discussing the importance of gauranteeing quality control of the shea leaving Mali. Although Mali's shea exports are in the beginning stages, there is huge potential for it to improve the lives of the most rural (and some may argue, the most impoverished) Malian women.

Shea exportation shows huge potential, but what I keep emphasizing to the women with whom I work is that they need to benefit from this shea more than anyone else. Yes, high-quality shea butter catches a pretty penny in the international market. However, this market, like all other markets, is not gauranteed or completely stable. To profit the most from this plentiful resource, they should make sure that their own needs are satisfied first. For example, many women have changed over most of their production with the hope of selling abroad. This is an important source of income for them, especially during the "hungry" time of the year. But it is also very important to realize what a place shea has in the good health habits of Malians. This is a high-calorie oil that they use in most of their meals, an oil that they can produce themselves instead of buying peanut or palm oil that is usually imported and much more expensive. Shea butter can be used lotion that smooths rough skin and heals small wounds. The shea leaves have other medicinal properties that Malians know and use. By focusing on improving shea trees, nuts and butter products for local consumption, Malian women can solve a number of problems without having to look abroad.

This Shea Day was followed by an International Shea Conference put on by the West African Trade Hub. International producers, buyers, sellers, tranporters, researchers, and scientists attended, providing a wide variety of perpectives on all aspects of shea. As Peace Corps Volunteer working in shea, we were invited to assist with different aspects of the conference- I was asked to help with the registration of the conference participants, which provided a very interesting view of shea work in West Africa. It made me consider more about shea on a global scale rather than just in my village, in my region, or in Mali. Unfortunately, I was unable to attend many of the sessions to hear the most up-to-date shea news and how these people plan to take advantage of the innumerable benefits in shea- and to return these benefits to the women who produce it.

In April, I co-directed a Shea NetWorkshop with the president of a the Malian Association for the Promotion of Young Women. Since I first arrived in Mali, I have had the luck to work very closely with this woman, who has supported and furthered important shea work in my village. Her job includes many activities, not only focusing on shea, but she has spent much time in trying to establish a well-functioning shea producers' network throughout Mali. This Workshop was meant to provide local women with a way to begin bridging the communication gap on shea, to share shea ideas, information and resources, and to empower these women to come together as one voice for shea. As shea efforts stand now, there are vast amounts of shea not being utilized because of a lack of coordination nationally. Although follow-up from the Workshop has been lacking (and that was kind of the point- to improve communication and follow-up), I hope that the attendees benefitted from learning about the national shea network and use their experience as a starting point for creating local networks. It is a work in progress than can improve with dedication to emphasizing the importance of shea in the everyday lives of Malian women.

Conversation and Cooperation

March

This year, we were able to hold a celebration in Bassa for International Women's Day. With the input of the women's association, we decided to present a skit on the value of girls' education, have a well-known and accomplished woman from Keleya come to speak, and to hold a cooking competition between 4 individuals-2 men and 2 women. And it was a man who won! Although it took a while to set-up, the final product was a fantastic day stressing the importance of cooperation within all types of relationships, whether it be husband and wife, student and teacher, friends or families. The women stuck around after the main activities to dance and to celebrate themselves. It was quite successful and everyone says how they cannot wait until next March 8th!
The judges for the cooking contest dig into the winning dish (one of the 4 traditional Malian dishes prepared) called zame, an oily and sometime spicy rice dish.

Contriving Solutions

Back to the maternity... or should I say "rural birthing facility"? Perhaps it does not seem like a big qualifier, but it begins to explain the challenges we encountered. Since my community first mentioned their need and desire for a maternity, we've approached the local experts in health for advice and guidance. We have spoken extensively with the management at the Local Health Center (CSCOM) and the representative of the government's health ministry at the mayor's office (ASACO). We've only gone with open ears for recommendations on how to proceed, considering that Bassa knew little about how we, specifically, could become a part of the local health network. The last I wrote, we had sent my friend Ami for matron training beginning February 1st in the regional capital of Bougouni.

March and April

After a number of set-backs in the matron trainings organized for a few village women, I became extremely discouraged, considering the possibility that the rural birthing facility (formally 'maternity') would not be opening any time soon. Bassa had fulfilled their contribution, as the rural birthing facility building was already complete. But now the young woman selected for matron training was returning to village- we had decide to help Ami withdraw from the training early.

Ami had spent 2 months receiving only 6 hours of formal training, which was not even close to fulfilling the written agreement we had signed with the doctor and formateur. I had no idea how we were to proceed after requesting that the money we had paid the Regional Health Center for half of the training (approximately $150) be returned. As I said, we had been working through the Local Health Center and branch of the health ministry, constantly asking for advice and guidance only to find out that we had been sent on far from the right path. It was so frustrating to see that after all our efforts to undertake this project within the local health network and legal framework, we were basically having to start over again.

Supposedly, the health branch of the government had given us written legal permission to construct the maternity when they should not have. Technically, under the law, maternities cannot be built within 15 km from each other. Then we found out that the leadership at the Local Health Center had not requested the correct approval from the Regional Health Center. Finally, the training for the matron would not provide her with the knowledge base to become a certified matron. Had Bassa discovered these details a year earlier when they initially began this project, many of these issues could have been avoided. But unfortunately in April, we were not on anyone's good side and needed to be in order to gain access to informational or material resources. Who could we trust after a year of receiving misinformation? We were out of ideas about the correct way to function within the local health structures.

We approached the new management at the Local Health Center who said that much had gone off-track, but they would try their best to help us back into the good graces of the Regional Health Center. In the meantime, they were expecting us to find a new training for the young woman. There are health schools throughout Mali, but knowing which one would be appropriate for our woman would take some more work. We held multiple health committee meetings to discuss the next steps. At one of these meetings, the health committee secretary reminded us of a woman who had visited village after returning from her pilgrimage. Her husband was a good friend of someone from Bassa. She herself was trained in health and has been the promotrice for a number of health schools for some time. We did not know exactly how she could assist us, but we were looking for new advice. Within a week of requesting her to come for a visit, she arrived in Bassa.

Contacts, Communication, and Compromise

April and May
We held a large meeting at which we presented our situation to Madame Sangare. Before arriving, she had already stopped by the Local Health Center to discuss their point of view. She had us tell her everything that had occurred and then she proposed her ideas. In general, she said that she was very pleased how the work was progressing- how the health and management committees were functioning and how the building looked. Had we been working together from the beginning, she would have changed a few things, but now she just wanted to pick up from where we were. She said that if necessary, she could arrange a special training for our village matron that would cover all the topics she would need and allow her to open the rural birthing facility within the year. Madame Sangare asked that we send an older woman (my host mother, Babintou) from village to formal training and make some additions to the building. Then, she agreed to talk to both the Local Health Center and Regional Health Center on our behalf in order to straighten things out; and that's exactly what happened.

Madame Sangare was able to right our relationship with the Regional Health Center. Although we were not on good terms after removing the young woman from the 'training' and because we had not properly informed the Regional Health Center of our intentions, Madame Sangare clarified the situation. She arranged the training for the older traditional birthing attendant and insisted that the Regional Health Center allow the trained attendant to open the rural birthing facility after her course. Bassa would then follow-up with all of the necessary authorities. Just before that time, the Regional Health Center had sent message that they would not approve the opening of the rural birthing facility, but Madame Sangare was able to convince them otherwise, proposing a compromise and saying that she would act as our representative, advocating for Bassa and beginning a new relationship, providing the support that the facility needs.

With permission from the Regional and Local Health Centers to move ahead, we made arrangements and sent the my host mother to her refresher course. Bassa continued developing their relationship with the local health network and with Madame Sangare. It was not long after that Madame Sangare told us the good news- that she would sponsor the Ami for her yearlong matron training in Bamako! In addition, Madame Sangare agreed to attend the opening of the rural birthing facility in the fall and to work with the village to start it off on the right foot with good habits and clear plan for the future.

I now know the importance of stressing local connections. It was fantastic to follow 'all the right steps' for working within the Malian system, but having even another expert on your side helps you improve networks as well as strengthen relationships through the use of a third party. Although I had thought that I was properly including my community members in all steps when developing the project, I never expected that some of the authorities could also take advantage of the Malians (and not just my lack of knowledge), that we would need an additional advocate for the village. Always expand networks and connections as much as possible- you'll find that some go no where and you'll find that others help you when you have no where else to go.

Continuing

June and beyond

My host mother will complete her traditional birthing attendant training at the end of July and come back to open the rural birthing facility in August or September. Until then, the health committee will be doing the best they can with the management details- setting prices, procuring materials and medicines, developing a business plan and spreading the word! Although the communities intend to start off slowly, they also have plans for expanding, making this facility as multiple-purpose as possible.

The rainy season has started and that means the return of agricultural work (people have begun plowing and planting) and shea work. Agricultural work takes a lot of time and effort and everyone is involved, so that leaves few opportunities for meetings and large projects. Currently, I am attending a training on Association Building and Food Security issues with two of my villagers. Bassa plans to focus on our needs to gaurantee food security in village as our next project and this training has provided a good base for thinking about the best way to address food security our specific issues. We completed a Food Security survey with 10 households back in March that revealed a true to concentrate on possible solutions.

After making it through what I would consider the most challenging few months of my Peace Corps service, I decided to extend my service for 6 months at my site until March 2011. I will be staying to complete and strengthen the projects on which we are currently working and those that we plan to undertake. I also hope to extend in order to transition with the health volunteer to replace me from the new volunteers arriving for training in February 2011.

Specifically, during this extension we will be opening and establishing the rural birthing clinic already built in village. By encouraging good habits from the beginning, the villagers of Bassa will prepare for the new volunteer's installation in April 2011 and the trained matron's planned arrival in September 2011. In addition, Bassa is looking forward to continuing our relationship with Madame Sangare as we look to improve the health of Bassa.

We plan to continue assisting the women's association on their organizational development and income-generating activities (including shea, pottery and soumbala). After a few years of working together with mediocre results, the association has taken the initiative to do an in-depth self-analysis and the results look promising for this year. As one of our Small Enterprise Development trainers says, we are moving from the "storming" to the "norming" stage of organizational development. This fall, we would like to invite this trainer to come to Bassa for an association building training to emphasize that we are going in the right direction. The shea association has also reorganized with the hope of expanding production and better networking with the surrounding communities.

June 8-10 I attended our "Close of Service" Conference at a hotel in Bamako with all of the volunteers I came to Mali with in July 2008 who are still left. The conference marked the beginning of our group's departures from Mali. Congratulations to my fellow HoBOs! My time in Mali would not have been as enjoyable without the continual support from my volunteer friends. I still will be returning to the US for my best friend's wedding this November and then come back to Mali for the final stretch. While it is difficult to realize that I will be staying here and watching everyone else go, I think that my extension is the perfect opportunity for a successful closure to my service.